Easy Hiking in Switzerland: First to Grosse Scheidegg

Posted on March 29, 2017 by Laurel

Swiss engineering amazes me at every turn. What vision they had even a century ago to make it possible for tourists, not just mountain climbers, to enjoy the high ground! The train that is known as the “BOB” (Berner Oberland Bahnen) dates to 1890, and thanks to Italian engineers, a train takes you to the Jungfraujoch at 11,371 feet above sea level.

The gondola to First.

Continuing our series on easy hiking in Switzerland, the trek from First to Grosse Scheidegg is magnificent. Usually, one would have to work much harder and deal with more people to have such stunning scenery. The adventure starts with a three-stage ride in the Grindelwald-First cable car, a 25-minute ride of more than 3 miles. Yes, another marvel of Swiss engineering. It is beautiful and it has been possible to take this ride since 1947. If all you have the energy to do is take the cable car, it is a worthy outing. But try to press on and you will be rewarded ten-fold!

Laurel, on-the-trail. We visited in October and it was still lovely!

From the top of the First lift, a super easy hike is to Bachalpsee. I’ll write about that trek another time. The hike to Grosse Scheidegg is only slightly more challenging and far less crowded.

Grosse Scheidegg is the pass between Grindelwald and Meiringen. A bus makes the trip, which is your easy-hiker return. More on that shortly. After your ascent, stop at the restaurant at the top of the gondola. We always start with a coffee and make use of the facilities. You can also watch the zip-liners on the “First Flyer” and take in the views from the First Cliff Walk.

These hikers consult a map, although the signs above their heads are really sufficient.

Heading out, follow the family-friendly Marmot Trail. We’ve not managed to see any of these critters here, but the whistles can sometimes be heard. Children, in particular, may enjoy the informational signs about Marmots. The wayfinding is excellent, so simply continue to follow signs to Grosse Scheidegg on a slightly undulating but generally downhill track wide enough for you to walk side-by-side. Enjoy views of the Schrekhorn, Wetterhorn and the mighty Eiger. Paragliders propel themselves off the cliffs and sail down to Grindelwald and provide delightful photo ops.

Paragliders – what a view!

After 5.2 kilometers, about 3 miles, you will reach the hotel at Grosse Scheidegg. (It is closed in winter.) From late May until late October,  the bus to Grindelwald will stop here. Simply pay the driver on board. This is your easy-hiker, 25-minute way back to town. Schedule here. Or you can hike back to First and take the lift down.

This hike took us about 1H 45M. We are not fast hikers and the downhill section through the Marmot Trail was a little slow. Hiking sticks and good sturdy shoes are highly recommended.

Eiger view.
Hotel at Grosse Scheidegg.
Wayfinding made easy.
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Easy Hiking in Switzerland: Lauterbrunnen to Mürren

Posted on March 13, 2017 by Laurel

When Ric and I talk about hiking in Europe, we immediately engage in a mental tug-of-war between the Val Gardena of Italy and the Lauterbrunnen Valley in Switzerland’s Berner Oberland. It is a very tough choice. Italy has the edge on cuisine and affordability, but the trains of Switzerland, the lifts and cogwheel trains in the Lauterbrunnen Valley, and the dramatic peaks are simply delightful. In the next few posts, I will share with you some of our favorite hikes in the area.

The Lauterbrunnen Valley with Staubbach Falls on the right. Our favorite apartment is near the church.

Tucked in a valley between mountains that compete for your time and attention, Lauterbrunnen is a perfect base camp for us. The peaks of the Jungfrau, Mönch, and Eiger stand guard to the east while the Schilthorn is just out of sight to the west. Each side of the valley is laced with appealing trails and vistas with trains, lifts, and buses synchronized to serve the traveler. One can easily spend a week here doing different hikes daily — all “easy” hikes at that!

We first visited the area in winter, searching for some winter wandern or snow hiking. Our first hike that trip was from Lauterbrunnen to Mürren. Now it is our traditional first-day hike in any season. The trail is easy, it only takes about 90 minutes, and the little town of Mürren offers great opportunities for sustenance be it lunch or simply a snack. Plus there are optional additional hikes and touring to do by foot or by lift out of Mürren.

One snowy October morning on the terrace at Grütschalp. A light dusting made the hike even more beautiful.

Starting in Lauterbrunnen, take the gondola to Grütschalp where most of your fellow travelers will board the little vintage train for a quick ride to Mürren. This is clearly the thing to do if you are, by any chance, sleeping in Mürren and thus burdened with luggage. If you are simply out for a day hike, take some time to enjoy the view of the three peaks before seeking the trail the enters the woods just beyond the train station.

This well-groomed path (even in winter!) meanders through the woods with gentle ups-and-downs, frequently in sight of the train tracks and the little train chugging along with its baggage cart. Soon you arrive at Winteregg, roughly the halfway point and the terminus of a ski run in winter with an intermediate stop for the train and a restaurant. Continue on with intermittent views of the mountains, now mostly flat and following the tracks still largely forested, a final 40 minutes-or-so to Mürren. Wander through the town. Perhaps a stop at the bakery for cappuccino and a pastry, or move on to the beautiful deck at Hotel Alpenruh for lunch with a view.

Lunch on the terrace at the Alpenruh Hotel, Mürren.

Satiated and refreshed, you are faced with several options. Nice weather might call you to venture to Piz Gloria on the Schilthornbahn. You can take the funicular from Mürren to Almendhubel to enjoy further hiking if you still have the energy.

An easy-hiker option is to walk down to cute little Gimmelwald (20 minutes), past perfectly-maintained Swiss houses with neat gardens and fat rabbits. Gimmelwald is a Rick Steves favorite and worth a walk-through to see what a tiny mountain village is like. There are limited options for dining and sleeping but it is quaint and reminiscent of a simpler time. At Gimmelwald, one can take a dramatic gondola to the valley floor where the yellow Swiss Post Bus arrives promptly for a short ride back to Lauterbrunnen. Or you can take a peaceful walk through the valley, about 90 minutes, stopping if you are so motivated at Trümmelbach Falls and pausing to watch base jumpers hurl themselves from the cliffs with their colorful parachutes.

Click through the slideshow for more great trail views.

The Lauterbrunnen Valley with it’s many waterfalls is quite flat.
The gondola from Gimmelwald to Stechelberg is a dramatic descent.
Cute little Mürren. No cars allowed!
A view of the peaks from Mürren.
Ric waits for the little train headed to Grutschalp.
In some places the trail is wide.
The little train chugs along the cliffside.
The path, and the tracks, approach Mürren.
Signage is excellent!
The trail above the train tracks.
A light dusting of snow on a mid-October morning made the landscape sparkle!
The train from Grutschalp arrives in Mürren.

No special equipment is required for this hike. Sturdy shoes, yes, with hiking boots and trekking poles optional (we always take ours). As always, prepare for the changeable weather in the mountains. Carry a jacket even if the day starts out warm, water and snacks should be in your daypack.

 

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