Easy hiking on the South Oregon Coast

Living in Lincoln City you would think we’d head inland for a getaway. Heck, our whole life is a getaway, but sometimes we like to go somewhere and have someone else make the bed, change the towels, and cook our meals.

So we headed south along the coast for a change of scenery, hoping for good weather, and searching for easy hikes. The weather was decidedly not bad. It was not perfect mind you (the cold winds of March but luckily, little rain), yet conducive to exploration and we got in enough exercise that we each lost a pound!

We have done many of the walks around Lincoln City but some of the trails here are really short (See Shorter hikes around Lincoln City). We also have Cascade Head to hike, but it is closed until July 15 to protect the Silver Spot butterfly. And there is The Knoll, practically in our back yard (See Out our back door) as well as Drift Creek Falls, which I have, as yet, failed to write up.

But we had never been south of Florence, Oregon. It was time to go!

Driving Highway 101 you are assaulted with opportunities to pull over and enjoy the view or explore a trailhead. State parks are abundant. We limited our travel day stop to the delightful Umpqua Lighthouse and a little walk, suitable for children, around Lake Marie and out to a viewpoint of the dunes.

Oregon Dunes, near Umpqua Lighthouse. ATVs are common, driving through the water, not so much.

Standing over a former Coast Guard station, the light is now operated as a private aid to navigation.

Tiny little Lake Marie, safer for kids and dogs than the ocean, especially when the surf and winds are high as they were this day.

As we had a four-plus hour day of driving, we did not dally too long. Pressing on to Bandon, we were there in time to take in some views and an orientation walk. The next day, we headed south.

Cape Blanco has a nice easy walk out to the lighthouse. In season you can park closer (it is open April-October) but this was a fine day to be on foot and completely alone. We had thought to hike up from the boat ramp near the Hughes House Museum, but the route along the beach was questionable due to high surf warnings. We settled for exploration near the lighthouse. This route of perhaps a mile roundtrip is suitable for small children, with no tricky footing. Even a stroller would be easy enough.

The Cape Blanco lighthouse, part of an extensive network of lights that once guarded the coast.

The view from the lighthouse base. Wish we could have gone inside. Only open April-October.

Not far from Cape Blanco is the tiny town of Port Orford. Beyond the barely existing business district lurks a hidden state park, Port Orford Heads, and a restaurant worthy of a much larger town.

We learned a bit about Port Orford when we attended a lecture by an Oregon State University scientist. She spoke about a gray whale research project she has been leading at Port Orford. And it was whale migration time so we hoped to spot some in transit. Port Orford Heads did not disappoint.

There is a web of interconnecting trails here. We chose an anti-clockwise path, first passing Nellie’s Cove where the Coast Guard used to launch their lifeboat. In those days (1934-1970) there was a steep staircase down the 280-foot cliff to the water, which these brave people would run down despite fierce conditions to launch into the storm-tossed ocean to effect rescues. We stayed safely on top, marveling at the beautiful water this calm day.

Nellie’s Cove. While the boat house burned many years ago and the steps we removed, can you see the pier between the rocks where the rescuers would have launched?

A level part of the trail, through the woods. Other portions are exposed, with broad vistas and benches for enjoying the view. Little elevation change.

Continuing, we found ourselves on the Headland Trail, alone but for two women sitting and spotting whales. We saw our first migrating whales of the season! The trail ends with a marvelous view out-to-sea and a henge-like formation far off-shore that underscores why navigating here was so dangerous before modern technology.

View from the end of the Headland Trail.

Looking north from Port Orford Heads, blue water and Garrison Lake.

Walking brings hunger and we satiated that at Redfish with a gorgeous view south along the coast at Battle Rock Wayside Park. Outdoor dining was an option, but a breeze kept us inside where our fish tacos would not get cold.

Bandon itself has some nice easy walks with to-die-for views. The Bandon State Natural Area along the cliffs to the west of town boasts wildlife and intriguing rock formations. The Cat and Kittens Rocks, Face Rock, Elephant Rock, Table Rock, and many more are home to 10 species of birds, primarily the Common Murre but also Grebes, Terns, and Brown Pelicans. Sea lions and Harbor Seals also are not uncommon. The easy trail at the Kronenberg County Park is paved and features a number of interpretive signs. it is perfect for children and beautiful for everyone. It is possible to access the beach with a steep but stable staircase.

Easy path. mostly paved, at Kronenberg Park. This path leads to the staircase to the beach.

Ric looks north from the Kronenberg County Park Nature Reserve.

Offshore the Oregon Coast boasts thousands of islands that harbor wildlife. Many are fanciful.

I highly recommend the books “Day Hiking on the Oregon Coast” by Bonnie Henderson and “100 Hikes/Travel Guide Oregon Coast and Coast Range” for valuable maps and insights.

Head on over to www.Girovaga.com where you can find a bit more about the trip.

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“Walking in Italy’s Val Gardena” Second Edition!

2 February 2019.

If anyone ever tells you writing a book is difficult, ask them how the editing and publishing process went.  Publishing is to writing as cooking is to eating: It takes a lot longer to create the meal than to eat it. At least it does for me, self-published as I am. The writing process was a piece of cake. Floundering through Kindle Direct Publishing gave me a stomach ache.  In fact, the author page links still are not working on all Amazon sites. Grrrr.

Ric on a new walk at Passo Gardena, with Jimmy Hutte in the distance. Many of our walks feature great places to relax and have lunch along the trail.

It has been a while since I last posted in November. We’ve been very busy. The last trip was, in part, to update our book and at last, we have published the second edition of “Walking in Italy’s Val Gardena!” Now containing 23 hikes (previously 20) and updated information as of autumn 2018, this is the book to take along on a trip to Ortisei or anywhere in Italy’s Val Gardena. There’s not much written in English in detail on this part of Italy. 

We had such a magnificent trip again last fall that I could hardly wait to get this published. Alas, the writing and (worse) editing process did take some time, but now the content is fresca fresca fresca, as our Italian friend Pellegrino used to say.

The approach to Fermeda on one of our new walks. How about having pizza with this view?

If you have never been to the Dolomites, put it on your list and spend a week. Heck, spend a month if you love hiking and mountains. Our best trip ever was passing the month of July parked in Ortisei while we did the initial research and writing the first edition.

Click on over to Amazon.com and get your copy, paperback or Kindle. Also available worldwide on Amazon.it, Amazon.co.UK, Amazon.de, or any other country Amazon site you buy from.

Note the first edition is still out there because that is where the reviews are. I am hoping to see some reviews of the Second Edition soon! (Hint Hint.)

This little marmot was hanging out with his “madness” at Seceda, above Ortisei. Hiking directions are in our book.

We make a point of hiking to this little chapel at Rasciesa each trip.

Also from one of our new walks at Passo Gardena. What a view!

On the trail from Ciampinoi to Passo Sella, a marvelous view of the Sciliar.

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